Joannes ollagnier



No.625,|20. Patented May l6,- I899.

J. OLLAGNIEB, M. FBUCTUS & E. DESCHER.

MANUFACTURE OF SILK FABRICS.

' (Application filed Sept. 20, 1897.) (No Model.)

Fggl X Fig-2 NrrEn STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JOANNES OLLAGNIER, MARIUS FRUGTUS, AND EUGENE DESOHER, OF LYONS, FRANCE.

MANUFACTURE OF SILK FABRICS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 625,120, dated May 16, 1899.

Application filed September 20, 1897.

mirror, French, or antique moirs may approach as regards appearance, but from which our article differs entirely by the total absence of the Watered effect which these various kinds of moirs present and also by the doubling or folding being dispensed with, as our method of manufacture enables us to avoid such.

This improved fabric differs from those hitherto made by the following characteristic. points: (a) It has a velvety appearance uniformly distributed over the brilliant foundation of the article hereinbefore, described. (1)) It has the touch or feel peculiar to moirs or calendered fabrics-that is to say, those which have undergone a moiring pressure and it has especially the feel and surface of velvet moire. (c) It hasa glazed back, resulting from the compression produced by the moire operation,which back exists in all moire fabrics with the exception, of course, of double-faced moirs. (d) It has especially the peculiar appearance of a fine hand-made velvet, and it reproduces faithfully the reflection and the deep appearance yielded by the play of the folds of such fabric, its resemblance to which as regards appearance is striking.

The whole effect hereinbefore described has long been sought either by manufacturers in the different methods of producing the fabric capable of receiving the moir operation without the watered effect or by calenderers (moirrs) in the processes of treatment for obtaining this moire, but without anyone succeeding, so that we consider the effect obtained by us to be absolutely novel, and we claim the absolute and exclusive right thereto. In order to obtain this result, we combine, first, an improved method of manufacturing this fabric; second, the special use as warp Serial No. 652,343. (No specimens.)

and weft for the said fabric of thread having the nature, composition, and form hereinafter indicated, and, third, the ordinary known meansof calendering or moiring.

The improved method of manufact uringthe fabric consists in placing on one loom a main warp delivered by one or more rollers and combined according to the draft and cording (an example of which is shown in Figure 1 of the accompanying drawings) for producing simultaneously two pieces perfectlyindependcut one of the other and each worked by half the common warp and leased separately and alternately by their respective wefts-that is to say, one pick for the upper piece and one pick for the under piece-so as to form two ex actly superposed and regularly adhering pieces. This adherence is obtained bya distinct supplementary warp D, as shown in Fig. 2, placed on one or more rollers, which supplementary warp is common to the two fabrics S and T,leasing the whole with more or less openwork, and passes alternately from the lay of the backer reverse of the lower piece S to the lay of the back of the upper piece T, as shown by the line D in Fig.1 2, which shows the binding produced by the said supplementary warp. The number of threads of this warp D may vary and be distributed in any suitable manner and they may be more or less close together over the width of the fabric. As may easily be understood, this supplementary warp D has only for its object to maintain the rib of one piece rigidly in the furrow of the other,according to the order of the alternate picks of the lay, there being one pick to one and one pick to the other of the two pieces, and it is the rigorous and absolute maintenance of this order up to and during the calendering (moiring) which,while allowing of the 1nathematically-rectilinear fitting in of the picks of weft of each of the two pieces of material, will avoid the watered efiects produced, as is Well known, by the Hitherto inevitable derangements of the ribs under the pressure of calendering, (moiring) This supplementary warp D, the object of which has just been explained, must be removed after the calendering (moiring) process in order to allow of the separation of the two pieces S and T. This removal may be effected by any suitable means, either by hand or mechanically.

The novel effect hereinbefore mentioned, which we have sought and obtained, is, however, really only produced by the use of, first, a warp consisting of threads of thrown silk scoured and worked into single, double, triple, or the like threads, and, second, a weft consisting of a thread composed of several threads of the same nature united in a single twistsuch as wool, silk, cotton,orspun fiosssilk-the said thread being made as round and compact as possible, as the round form draft and cording only being shown in Fig.

1, the right is reserved, of course, of employing with this process of manufacture any draft and cording adapted for the purpose, the principle of execution remaining the i same and each of the two pieces produced in duplicate having exactly the same arrange- It is also possible to add thereto the arrangement known as stripes, l

ment of threads.

checks, embossed, printed, and the like.

We declare that what we claim is 1. Theimproved process of manufacturing a calendered silk fabric of the kind described, which consists in weaving two similar independent pieces simultaneously face to face,

with the surface ribs of one piece lying precisely in the furrows of the other piece, and then calendering the fabric thus produced before separating the pieces, substantially as hereinbefore described.

2. Theimproved process of manufacturing a calendered silk fabric of the kind described, which consists in weaving two similar independent pieces simultaneously face to face, with the surface ribs of one piece lying precisely in the furrows of the other piece, with 1a supplemental warp adapted to secure the two pieces firmly but temporarily together, applying to the double fabric thus produced the ordinary calendering pressure (moiring operation) while the pieces are thus united, and finally withdrawing the supplemental warp and separating the pieces, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof we have signed our names to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses,

J OANNES OLLAGNIER. MARIUS FRUGTUS. EUGENE DESOHER. Witnesses:

XAVIER JANIooT, JEAN GERMAIN. 

